At the Devil's Tower in Wyoming I was surprised to discover rock climbing. No, not for myself, but by serious rock climbers from all over the world. I have been an armchair mountaineer all my life. Being in the presence of these lithe men and women, watching them wordlessly unpack gear, coil ropes, mentally prepare for what's ahead, seeing their bodies clinging to vertical rock faces, inching upward in the blazing sun, makes me feel I've been transported to another world with another race of people. I am in the presence of true rock stars.